but the two threads on the end of the headstock spindle are actually UNF.The inner UNF thread ( looks like 3/4" ) is for the bearing loading collar and the outer one ( 5/8" 18 tpi I measured this one accurately ) is where the stud ? gear is located. I noticed something very odd - the fixture bolt threads on this machine are BSF and BSW as you would expect. The little 3"chuck is off without any drama :U.It is badly worn and needs replacing. Just been playing with my new 100 year old toy The famous ME magazine was first published in 1898 ! I am amazed to find out that the model enginering hobby started out in the UK in the late 1800's. The overall build quality of Drummonds is very good. Turns out the thread I thought was UNF, is actually a British conduit thread, A UNF nut fits on it nicely :doh: The yahoo Drummond group has been a wealth of info. I never did finish the copper salt/pepper shakers in form 3. At 14 I was gluing airfix models together. You would have many memories of that round bed Drummond then. Interesting machine history reading up on Drummond Lathes, you have a nice purchase. Just made up a milling attachment for it using the cast iron angle plate off the old Drummond Lathe. Later I had a couple of Hercus 9 " lathes & today a Hercus 260 I purchased new about 20 yrs back. I used that lathe for some years, & now regret selling it. Installed & glued up a 1 inch wide leather drive belt & later made up a back gear set up using gears purchased from Hercus in S A. I converted it from pedal to power by installing a washing machine motor. It was a 3 step flat belt drive from a large cast iron pedal operated system underneath the lathe. Different lathes will offer different results in certain situations, and it's best to ensure you have the right one for your needs before beginning production.My first lathe at 14 yrs of age was a round bed Drummond. If you're unsure what lathe is the best for your needs, consult with your dealer or seller before purchasing. Things like the swing over bed and over carriage distance, max length of workpiece, taper hole of spindle, distance of spindle and tool plane, and the main motor power are some of the primary specs to be mindful of. If you're looking to buy a lathe, there are a few specs you'll want to keep an eye out for. Some of the most common cutting tool styles include diamond, round, square and triangular.
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These tool bits are available in a range of shapes and sizes, and are hardened (especially for metalworking uses) as they need to be able to cut through metal and other hard materials. When using a lathe, specialist tool bits will need to be used. Of course, while there are many CNC lathes, manually controlled lathes are still popular, especially for smaller pieces and workshops with smaller production lines. This allows the workpiece to be accurately tooled, sanded or drilled with little-to-no room for error. As with many production machines, a lot of modern lathes are equipped with computer numerical control (CNC) systems. Picking the right kind of lathe will depend on what you're looking to create. Some of the most common metalworking lathes include engine lathes, mini metal lathes, centre metal lathes, terret metal lathes and accessories for tooling lathes. When it comes to metalworking lathes, there are also a few varieties that offer different results.
![drummond lathe drummond lathe](https://dygtyjqp7pi0m.cloudfront.net/i/39020/33506869_4.jpg)
Lathe designs vary depending on their intended use, and can vary from small tabletop machines to large, stand-alone models that can hold large workpieces.